Quick Answer
Split's local food scene is defined by traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Must-try dishes include Peka (slow-cooked meat/seafood under embers), Pašticada (braised beef with gnocchi), and Crni Rižot (cuttlefish ink risotto). For an authentic experience, visit a traditional tavern known as a 'konoba' near Diocletian's Palace.
A Culinary Journey Through Split: Eating Like a Local
Split, the vibrant heart of the Dalmatian coast, is more than just ancient Roman palaces and stunning Adriatic beaches. Its soul is found in its kitchens, markets, and bustling 'konobas' (taverns). The local cuisine is a pure expression of its Mediterranean identity: simple, fresh ingredients from the sea and the rugged hinterland, prepared with time-honored techniques. This guide is your key to unlocking Split's most authentic flavors.
What Traditional Dalmatian Dishes Must I Try in Split?
Forget generic tourist fare. To truly experience Split, you need to seek out these classic dishes that have been passed down through generations.
Peka: The Ultimate Dalmatian Slow-Cooked Feast
Peka is not just a dish; it's a culinary event. It consists of meat (typically veal or lamb) or seafood (usually octopus) cooked with potatoes and vegetables under a bell-shaped iron lid ('peka') covered in hot embers. The ingredients are slow-roasted and steamed in their own juices for hours, resulting in incredibly tender and flavorful food.- Insider Tip: Peka must be ordered in advance, usually 3-4 hours or even a day before. It is designed for sharing, typically for a minimum of 2-4 people. A typical price is around €30-€40 per person.
Crni Rižot (Black Risotto): A Taste of the Adriatic
Don't be intimidated by its color. Crni rižot gets its dramatic black hue and deep, savory flavor from cuttlefish or squid ink. The risotto is rich, briny, and cooked to a perfect al dente consistency. It's a staple on the menu of almost every seafood restaurant in Split.- Key Ingredients: Arborio rice, cuttlefish, cuttlefish ink, garlic, white wine, and parsley.
Pašticada: The 'Queen' of Dalmatian Cuisine
Often served at celebrations and family gatherings, Pašticada is a complex and beloved dish. It features a prime cut of beef (usually topside) marinated for up to 24 hours in vinegar, wine, and herbs. It is then slow-braised for hours with root vegetables, prunes, and prosciutto, creating a rich, sweet-and-sour sauce. It is almost exclusively served with homemade gnocchi.- Expect to Pay: A plate of authentic Pašticada in a good konoba will cost between €20 and €28.
Gregada: Split's Traditional Fish Stew
Originating from the island of Hvar but popular throughout central Dalmatia, Gregada is the fisherman's answer to a hearty meal. It is a simple, rustic stew made with several types of white sea fish (like grouper or scorpionfish), potatoes, onions, garlic, and olive oil, all cooked together slowly in one pot. Unlike other fish stews, it does not contain tomatoes.Soparnik: The UNESCO-Protected Savory Pie
Soparnik is a thin, savory pie filled with Swiss chard, onions, and parsley, baked in an open-hearth oven called a 'komin'. After baking, it's brushed with garlic and olive oil. Hailing from the nearby Poljica region, it holds a UNESCO geographical protection status. You can find it sold by the slice at the Green Market (Pazar), making it a perfect, affordable snack for around €3-€4 per slice.Where Can I Find the Best Local Food in Split?
From rustic taverns to modern bistros, Split offers a dining experience for every taste and budget. The best places are often tucked away in the stone alleys of the Varoš neighborhood or within the palace walls.
For Authentic 'Konoba' Experiences
A 'konoba' is a traditional Dalmatian tavern, characterized by stone walls, wooden furniture, and a menu focused on simple, hearty fare.- Konoba Varoš: Located about 600m from the palace, this spot is famous for its grilled fish and peka. It has a rustic, authentic atmosphere. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
- Konoba Fetivi: A Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient, Fetivi is a family-run gem known for its exceptionally fresh seafood and traditional recipes. It's located just a 10-minute walk from the Riva. Reservations are essential.
For Fresh Seafood and Fish
Proximity to the Adriatic means Split's seafood is second to none. The best place to eat it is near the source.- Peškarija (The Fish Market): For the freshest experience, visit the fish market in the morning (06:30 - 14:00). Right next to it, you'll find places like Zlatna Ribica that serve simple fried fish and seafood snacks.
- Nostromo: Situated right at the entrance of the fish market, Nostromo is an upscale option run by a famous chef. It's pricey but offers some of the highest quality seafood in the city. A tasting menu can cost over €100.
For a Modern Twist on Dalmatian Classics
Several restaurants in Split are reinterpreting traditional recipes with modern techniques.- Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar: Inspired by Barcelona's La Boqueria market, this popular and stylish restaurant offers a lively atmosphere and a creative menu. Prices for mains range from €25 to €40.
- ZOI: Located on the southern wall of Diocletian's Palace, ZOI offers breathtaking sea views and an elegant, fine-dining menu that fuses Dalmatian ingredients with Mediterranean influences.
What Are the Best Food Markets in Split?
To truly connect with local food culture, a visit to Split's markets is non-negotiable.
The Green Market (Pazar)
Located just outside the eastern wall (Silver Gate) of Diocletian's Palace, the Pazar is a riot of color, sound, and scent. It operates daily from roughly 06:30 to 15:00. Here you can find seasonal fruits and vegetables, local cheeses (like Paški sir), prosciutto (pršut), homemade rakija, and jars of honey and jam.- Insider Tip: Go in the morning for the best selection. While prices are generally fixed for produce, you can politely haggle if buying in larger quantities from the smaller, independent vendors.
The Fish Market (Peškarija)
Split's fish market, located on Marmontova Street, is a must-see. The bustling indoor market is where locals and chefs buy their daily catch. It's open from approximately 06:30 until 14:00 (or until the fish sells out).- Unique Fact: The market is famously free of flies. This is due to the nearby sulfuric springs, whose scent naturally repels insects, keeping the market remarkably clean.
What Are Typical Food and Drink Prices in Split?
Split can accommodate various budgets. Here is a realistic breakdown of what to expect in 2026:
- Espresso / Kava s Mlijekom: €1.50 - €2.50
- Glass of Local House Wine: €4 - €7
- Local Beer (0.5L): €3.50 - €5
- Scoop of Gelato: €2 - €3
- Slice of Pizza or Soparnik: €3 - €5
- Main Course at a Budget 'Konoba': €12 - €20
- Main Course at a Mid-Range Restaurant: €20 - €35
- Tasting Menu at a Fine Dining Restaurant: €80+
Insider's Guide to Eating Like a Local in Split
Understanding 'Marenda'
'Marenda' is a traditional mid-morning meal, similar to a brunch or second breakfast. Between 10:00 and 12:00, many konobas offer a few simple, hearty, and affordable dishes of the day ('gableci'). This is a fantastic way to eat authentic, delicious food for under €10-€12.The Art of Ordering Coffee
Coffee in Split is a ritual, not a rush. Find a café on the Riva, order a kava s mlijekom (coffee with milk, like a latte) or a macchiato, and watch the world go by. It's common for locals to sit for an hour over a single coffee.Tipping Etiquette in Croatia
While not mandatory, tipping is appreciated for good service. The standard practice in restaurants is to round up the bill or leave a 10% tip in cash. For drinks at a cafe, simply rounding up to the nearest Euro is common.Drinking Rakija
This potent fruit brandy is the national drink. You'll be offered many varieties, with the most common being travarica (herbal), šljivovica (plum), and orahovica (walnut). It is typically consumed as an aperitif to start a meal or a digestif to finish it. Živjeli (cheers)!Top Recommendations
Konoba Varoš
Price
€20-€35 per main
Rating
4.5★Distance
600m west of Diocletian's Palace
Villa Spiza
Price
€15-€25 per main
Rating
4.7★Distance
200m north of the Riva
Konoba Fetivi
Price
€18-€30 per main
Rating
4.6★ (Michelin Bib Gourmand)Distance
700m west of Diocletian's Palace
Uje Oil Bar
Price
€25-€40 per main
Rating
4.6★Distance
Inside Diocletian's Palace
Fife
Price
€10-€18 per main
Rating
4.2★Distance
300m west of the Riva
| Name | Price | Rating | Distance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Konoba Varoš | €20-€35 per main | 4.5★ | 600m west of Diocletian's Palace |
| Villa Spiza | €15-€25 per main | 4.7★ | 200m north of the Riva |
| Konoba Fetivi | €18-€30 per main | 4.6★ (Michelin Bib Gourmand) | 700m west of Diocletian's Palace |
| Uje Oil Bar | €25-€40 per main | 4.6★ | Inside Diocletian's Palace |
| Fife | €10-€18 per main | 4.2★ | 300m west of the Riva |
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Split
Is tap water safe to drink in Split, Croatia?
Yes, the tap water in Split is completely safe to drink and of very high quality. You can refill your water bottle from any tap, which is a great way to save money and stay hydrated.
What is a 'konoba' in Croatia?
A 'konoba' is a traditional Dalmatian tavern. They typically offer a cozy, rustic atmosphere with stone walls and wooden decor, serving authentic, homemade local dishes like grilled fish, peka, and pašticada.
Do I need to make reservations for restaurants in Split?
For popular and highly-rated restaurants, especially during the peak season (June-September), reservations are highly recommended. For casual konobas or for lunch, you can often find a table without one, but it's always safer to call ahead.
What is the best local wine to try in Split?
For white wine, try Pošip, a full-bodied white from nearby islands. For red wine, Plavac Mali is the most famous and robust Croatian red, related to Zinfandel. Most restaurants offer excellent local house wines ('domaće vino') by the carafe.
What are typical meal times in Split?
Locals typically eat lunch between 13:00 and 15:00. Dinner is usually eaten later, starting from 20:00 onwards, especially in the summer when the evenings are long and warm.
Is Split expensive for food?
Split can cater to all budgets. You can find affordable meals like grilled fish or daily specials at a konoba for €12-€20, while a meal at a fine dining restaurant can cost over €50 per person. Eating at markets and bakeries is very budget-friendly.
Related Guides
More helpful travel guides


